Our
first visit to the Hemingway Home was in October 2002.
The Home is very well preserved, almost as if stuck in
time.
As a matter
of fact, upon walking into the home it felt like we were
walking back in time. The year being 1937 we found out
later. It felt as if Hemingway would walk around a corner
any minute. Maybe I felt his presence. I don't know. I
still get chills thinking about that first visit.
It has been
said that Hemingway can occasionally be seen sitting and
walking inside his home, and outside reportedly at times
waving to you. I have not seen him. Yet.
The tour guide
was very well versed, an encyclopedia of knowledge and
answered all our questions. We learned a lot about Mr.
Hemingway, his second wife Pauline Pfeiffer and his third
wife Martha Gellhorn that day.
Ernest
and Pauline married in 1927 and in 1928 moved from Paris
where she was working as a journalist for Vogue Magazine
to Key West. They lived in a modest apartment where Hemingway
continued to write and finished The
Sun Also Rises.
In 1931 Pauline's
rich uncle Gus paid $8,000 and gifted to them what would
become the Historic Hemingway Home and Museum on Whitehead
Street. It was in several stages of ruin and decay.
I was told
there may be truth to the rumor that Ernest chose that
house because it is close to the Key
West Lighthouse - which can be seen from almost anywhere
in Key West - and he would have no trouble finding his
way home any time day or night. Interesting theory.
Did
you know? The
Hemingway Home has a full basement. |
The house was
built in 1851 out of limestone blocks cut from the lot.
That is why the house has a basement under it! Unheard
of in Key West. A lot of interior and exterior work was
needed, but Mr. and Mrs. Hemingway lived there during
most of the renovations.
The home relied
on two cisterns for water. Public water did not arrive
to Key West until World War II in the 1940's. The home
did have electricity which arrived in Key West in 1899,
the year Ernest was born.
They
made the house their home. Had just about everything inside
redone. Added his writing studio complete with his 1700's
Walnut Secretary from Spain. Did you know? He collected
Spanish furniture built in the 1600's and 1700's .
Hemingway would
rise in the morning and head to his studio to write.
Hemingway would not stop writing or leave his studio until
he had written at least 800 words.
He would then
consider his daily work finished and go fishing, boxing,
head to Greene Street to "drink with his fools"
or whatever would be a distraction for him.
Did
you know?
Hemingway wanted nothing to do with the pool. |
The
landscaping is absolutely beautiful. Stroll around at
your leisure and admire the many years of lush growth.
You may feel that you are in a jungle at times. There
is always something blooming or getting ready to bloom.
The grounds are huge compared to the neighboring lots.
You can expect the cats to tag along with you. There is
No Smoking Allowed. If you smell cigarette smoke, Pauline
has reportedly been seen in the gardens smoking. Do you
believe in ghosts?
The
in ground pool. Hemingway did not want it. The pool
is dug into pure limestone coral and took hundreds of
hours of labor and was ready to dive into in 1937. It
was the first in Key West. I believe it cost close to
$10,000 although some suggest it was closer to $20,000.
Hemingway
placed a penny in the drying pool concrete and said something
similar to "there now you have taken my last penny".
But, he did not pay for it. His wife Pauline paid for
it! The penny can still be found in the concrete today
from 1937! (some say it was 1938).
It
is ironic that in 1936 Hemingway met his future wife number
three Martha Gellhorn while she was on a family vacation
in Key West. She was a writer and journalist. She was
28, very successful and already had two novels under her
belt. Ernest was 37 and had published while with Pauline
The Sun Also
Rises, A Farewell
to Arms, Death
in the Afternoon, and
Green Hills of Africa along with shorts.
Well, Martha
was in Key West. In Sloppy Joe's. In 1936. Hemingway was
present. As usual. She paid the bartender $20 for an introduction.
That was a lot of money back then, the U.S. was still
feeling the economic damage of the Great Depression. From
there we don't know if anything happened between them
in 1936 in Key West but Martha was invited and did sun
tan at the Hemingway Home back yard. He ran into her again
in Spain in 1937 while she was covering the Spanish Civil
War for Colliers magazine.
Did
you know?
Martha was at Normandy on D Day June 6, 1944 |
They favored opposite
sides of the Spanish Civil War, he the left wing Republicans,
she the right wing Nationalists. They became lovers. He
married Martha 3 weeks after his divorce from Pauline in
1940. They moved to Cuba.
Little
known fact: Martha Gellhorn was the only woman
to go ashore at Normandy's Omaha Beach with U.S. Troops
on D Day June 6, 1944. She had snuck on board the landing
craft and was a stowaway! She was a war correspondent
legend in her time. Her boots on the ground approach worked
well for her. She died of apparent suicide in 1998 at
the age of 89.
Pauline stayed
in Key West. Hemingway had fallen out of favor with the
locals in Key West because of Martha. They considered
Pauline a dear friend who did not deserve to be treated
that way by Ernest. He never returned to Key West.
Pauline lived
in the Key West home with their sons until her death in
1951. That same year the Hemingway Home celebrated it's
100th trip around the Sun.
Did
you know? Hemingway
was married when he met future wives 2, 3 &
4. |
The way Hadley,
her sister Jinny, Pauline and Hemingway met and became
friends is another story -that will not be found here
- but deserves more research. Along with a timeline of
all four wife's in order - including marriage dates and
divorce dates - to better appreciate the real Ernest
Hemingway.
When
asked about leaving Pauline for Martha he was quoted as
saying "those that live by the sword die by the sword".
Which I took
to mean that Hemingway was still married to wife number
one (1921 - 1927) Hadley Richardson (8 years his senior)
when he met Pauline. Pauline the seductress as he called
her, he said not much to look at but very sensuous.
Martha left
Hemingway and divorced him in 1945, his shortest marriage
and the only wife to ever leave him. No matter her successes,
she was always considered standing in the shadow of her
husband.
He
then went on to marry wife number four Mary Welsh in 1946
(also a journalist, that he met in London in 1945). Mary
did not mind at all being in the shadow of Hemingway's
greatness. They moved to Cuba. Then in 1959 to Ketchem,
Idaho. She was with him until his death in 1961 in Idaho
at age 62 when he lamented "nothing works anymore".
Did
you know?
He had an affair while married to Mary. |
He had an affair
while still with Mary. He was 50, Adriana Ivancich
was 18. It
is not known if there is proof of sexual relations between
them, but Hemingway being Hemingway you can make an educated
guess. He even invited Adriana and her Mother to stay
with him and Mary in Cuba for months.
He
wrote a novel about it, Across
the River and Into the Trees. The main characters
are a 50 year old man (him) and a 19 year old woman (her).
Adriana later admitted that she was the 19 year old in
the book. Mary allowed it to be published two years after
his death. Mary had a lot of class.
In 2011 much
of Hemingway's personal papers and more were donated to
the JFK Presidential Library in Boston. In one love letter
between them Hemingway writes in part "When I
am away from you I do not give a damn, really, about any
thing" & "I miss you very much.
Sometimes it is so bad that I cannot stand it."
Adriana committed
suicide in 1983. Adriana with Hemingway deserves more
research to get a better feel for the real Hemingway and
his very complex personality.
Did
you know? The
water fountain for the cats is a urinal from Sloppy
Joe's. |
This is my
recollection of our tour guide's story behind the urinal:
Sloppy
Joe Russell's rent on the Greene Street Sloppy Joe's was
raised from $3 to $4 a week. He considered the increase
unreasonable Joe decided to buy the vacant building at
201 Duval Street for $2,500 (some say $1,500). However,
he was bound by a lease until May of the following year
which prohibited him from relocating the business or removing
anything from inside the premises. On
May 1, 1937 his lease ended.
So the evening
of May 5th, 1937 Joe and his bar patrons relocated Sloppy
Joe's Bar and everything inside the Bar to the
current Sloppy Joe's location at 201 Duval Street. Everything.
Even the urinal. According to our Tour Guide they then
continued to drink the night away at the new Sloppy Joe's
location. Ernest wanted the urinal so he dragged it home
that night. Some stories claim Sloppy Joe delivered it.
Ernest was out of the country some of that year so it
could be true.
Did
you know? The
original 6 toed cat was a gift from a Cuban Sea
Captain. |
Those
interesting Hemingway 6 toed cats. They all started
with one, Snow White, given to Ernest by a sea captain from
Cuba. That is not a picture of Snow White.
Anyway,
my shoe became untied so I sat down to tie it. A six toed
cat immediately jumped on my lap and wanted some love!
And she received a lot of it. Soon I found myself the
target of several cats who craved some attention from
us humans. There were so many varieties and breeds all
mixed up. No two were alike. They were all differently
unique and very sweet and friendly. Some even had the
usual five toes instead of the famous six, which is not
really all that uncommon. It is caused by a mutated gene
that is found in cats all over this part of the world.
My
wife Terri decided to sit for a minute and the same sweet
cat jumped from my lap to her lap! It seemed as if the
kitty just wanted to nap on her lap.
We
enjoyed the cats then, and again while we strolled the
very lush vegetation of the yard. Which is quite large
and the plants are very well cared for.
When you do
leave the Hemingway Home, you are a short walk from the
Southernmost
Point Buoy at 1400 White4head Street.
Or you can head the other direction on Whitehead
Street to the Green Parrot Bar. It is one of the Bars
where the locals hang out. A very cool bar.
Did
you know? The
Hemingway Cats with 6 toes are known as polydactyl. |
We may earn a
small commission from some of the rental, charter,
tour, excursion, or other links on this web site. Not all
links from our web site earn a small commission. Some links,
such as the
Hemingway Home & Museum Guided Tour
are provided because we believe the Hemingway Home and Museum
should be visited.
Please
scroll down when you land on their page to see admission
prices. Tickets are sold at the main gate. No reservations
are required! Open all year. Enjoy!

I
was told the Papa picture at the right is from the 1950's
on board his yacht the Pilar.
Here
is a great way to see the Hemingway Home & Museum
and world famous cats. The Hemingway Home and Museum
Guided Tour link is above .
See it before the featured tour starts.
There
are many Hemingway theme tours available.
The
Hemingway Food & Drink Walking Tour is one
of the best. The Hemingway
Home front gate is the Food and Drink Walking Tour
starting point.
Take the Guided Tour of the Hemingway Home Before the
food and drink walking tour.
Click
the No Obligation link for available dates, times, prices,
menu and more details.
You
will see where he lived when he arrived in Key West in
1928, kept his yacht Pilar, the places he liked hanging
out, the original Sloppy Joe's and current Sloppy Joe's,
and much more.
Hemingway's
Yacht Pilar in her Glory Days.
Did
you know? Hemingway
volunteered to help in the first World War. |
It
is hard for me to imagine Hemingway living through the
first World War where he volunteered at age 18 as an
ambulance driver and was wounded on the Italian front
by mortar fire that landed in his trench.
Then while
in the hospital he fell in love with Alice his nurse.
fyi - He said his first wife Hadley reminded him of
his nurse Alice that took care of him in the hospital.
(A Farewell
to Arms).
He was there. The 1918 Spanish Flu pandemic, Stock Market
crash of 1929, the Great Depression and it's worldwide
economic turmoil and in Key West (To
Have and Have Not).
Prohibition. The
Labor Day hurricane of 1935 where he volunteered to go
to Islamorada and help with the 244 dead and search for
the 165 missing. He covered the Spanish Civil War (For
Whom the Bell Tolls). Witnessed the 2nd World
War. The Korean War. God knows what else. And we wonder
why he loved to drink and to fish. My guess is he drank
to help him forget as well.
He
is also quoted with saying "I drink to make people
more interesting". After what he had seen first hand
and the guilt he had to live with all the way back to
Hadley I believe it to be partly true. He had written
a book about his life with Hadley - more about that follows
in the next paragraph. And had written a book about he
and his mistress while married to Mary. Yep. Across
the River and Into the Trees.
After
his death in 1961 Mary Hemingway discovered more than
300 unpublished works. She released the unpublished novel
A Moveable Feast
in 1964, that is based on his marriage to Hadley
and living in Paris in the 1920's. He finished most of
it after he received the Nobel Prize for Literature in
1954. For more books visit the Hemingway
Book Page.
Check
out the history behind the famous Hemingway
Daiquiri and Papa Doble (and how it got its name)
along with great drink recipes. Cheers to Papa Hemingway!


Some links
do not earn a commission. Such as the
Hemingway Home and Museum Guided Tour.
The link is provided because we believe the Hemingway
Home and Museum should be visited while in Key West,
Florida. Located at 907 Whitehead Street near the Key
West Lighthouse and Museum and Southernmost Point.
Did
you know?
There are many Guided
Ghost Tours in Key West. |
There
are several guided Ghost Tours available in Key West.
One which includes Robert
the Doll the world's most haunted doll. You
may have heard of him or caught documentaries about him
on the TV.
The button
below takes you to Guided
Ghost Tour listings with brief descriptions
and provides links directly to each tour with prices
and more detailed information. Several Ghost Tours are
listed for your entertainment if you dare.
The
Southernmost
Point Buoy is not far from the Hemingway
Home at 1400 Whitehead Street. And the Key
West Lighthouse is across the street. You
should visit both while on Whitehead Street!
|